Luxembourg - A City of Hidden Depths

When I say hidden depths, I do mean it literally. I am fortunate to have been to the country of Luxembourg twice in the recent past, but somehow managed to elude the city itself, until now. In brief, my first time was to the tiny town of Echternach in July where I had a lovely alfresco lunch in the square before hiking through Wollefsschlucht - or Wolf Gorge. This is a natural sandstone formation that weaves through trees and shadows, into caves and hollows up stone steps to reveal breath-taking views over forests and provides a silent sanctuary the whole way except for the echo of your footsteps. 

Hardly worth mentioning was my second trip; I was just off a main road at the back of the business district. Arriving late at night and having to set off early in the morning (as I was just in Transit), I saw nothing, did nothing and had no real connection to the place. 

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Now, third time lucky, I arrived in Luxembourg in the height of summer, to spend what in Britain was August Bank Holiday weekend, but what in Luxembourg was just a regular few sunny summer days. After consulting Park4Night, which has become my best friend, I parked our retro Concorde motorhome in a free area in the suburb of Dudelange-Usine. At first glance it looked to be a rather industrial, rundown area that would make most people carry on driving but after blinking again you could see it was actually very hip and happening. Old warehouses were adorned with fairy lights and colourful murals brightened up the dark walls and windows; inside were eateries, bars and shops along with a craft brewery (called Twisted Cat). The streets that came into view were petite, with slate grey and pastel-coloured houses and dotted in between were things of interest like an art installation, or an old telephone box turned into a free library. I was able to get a feel for the place quickly, and it had a safe, chilled vibe to it not dissimilar to The Baltic Triangle in Liverpool, UK. 

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Taking the train was as easy as it gets. Firstly, it is free (as is all public transport in Luxembourg), so no drama or fights with ticket machines as can be standard when using public transport anywhere and the electronic boards clearly indicated what train was going where and when. The trains are beyond comfortable with plush racing green padded seats with leather armrests and red pleated curtains. It was a nice way to relax and see some of the villages and green spaces passed by out of the window before arriving at Gare Central. Door to door journey takes about forty-five minutes. 

With no prior research done or sense of the layout of the city I walked up Avenue de la Liberte to the right of the station, taking in grand administrative buildings, clock towers and white paved squares filled with kiosks selling drinks and ice creams. I crossed bridges that gave spectacular views into the gorge and the jagged cliffs on either side plus a glimpse of the houses dotted amongst the rocks and trees. You could make out winding paths and little roads that kept disappearing and reappearing at intervals and at the very bottom a trickle of water that was lit by the sun and had a silvery green shimmer. 

Unknowingly I was in the new town and soon passed high street stores I recognised on the other side of the road with a huge department store dominating the junction, and banks and other commercial businesses here and there. Out of the corner of my eye, I spied spires and cobbles to my right - the start of the old town I presumed - but veering to my left a stately park was right ahead with a huge fountain in full flow at the gates and I was enticed in. The park was simply called Parc de Ville. Beyond the fountain were floral displays, huge old trees, statues and monuments to historic figures of Luxembourg and various street performers including a Jamaican reggae band and a juggler. A lot of people were having picnics or just lazing about, and it was pleasant to walk through this well-tended, and deceptively large park. 

At the top of the park what can only be described as Las Vegas meets a fun fair you might remember from your childhood presented itself - loudly. It is a pop-up theme park for the summer and has rollercoasters and other big, bonkers rides plus hook-a-duck and a camel derby. There are flashing lights and DJs down one aisle, and then a monochrome champagne bar down the next playing jazz. I spotted a vegan restaurant next to a candyfloss stall and then Octoberfest seemed to have started early in an area all to itself. You could buy a motorbike by the entrance and win a fluffy unicorn at the exit. One glass of champagne and zero unicorns later, I left.